Indoor Climbing Grades
Having run many events across the UK, we are now being increasingly asked about indoor grading for drytooling routes. The use of conventional outdoor grading does not seem to work very well, particularly as routes are generally climbed wearing either rock shoes or mountain boots, and can contain a variety of obstacles such as chains, tyres etc.
It has been put to us, on more than one occasion, that a stand-alone indoor grading system would be a very welcome step forward. This would be a 'T' grade, standing for 'tooling' (an 'IT' grade was suggested, but 'IT' sounds a bit too close to computers....), so we are currently working on an outline grading system to see how it evolves.
There will obviously be a lot of thought having to go into this, which is why we are putting this out for comments. For instance, some comps use rock shoes, others mountain boots. It seems that the use of the second type of footwear would put the grade up by two stops, but is that the only difference?
If you would be kind enough to take a minute to fill out the tables below, we would be very grateful. Some of the (more printable!) responses will be published (without your email address) on the site shortly after receipt.
So, the questions that we have for you are:
REPLIES.
'YES'
You'd only want one letter. Any more than one starts looking messy.......Good explanation to a good, solid system will help. Maybe even get a climbing magazine to do a bit on it? Spread the word. And good luck.
Rebecca.
Absolutely. There is too much sandbagging going on where people try routes that are far too hard for them and get put off. I've seen this in a couple of comps. The sooner this comes in the better.
Anon.
A great idea, get it in for the Scottish series, then I'll know what to start on and what to leave for later!
Steve.
Yes, this is needed.
Anon.
In order to keep things simple, no a,b and c's please. Just a number, perhaps followed by a + if the route is at the limit of that grade.
Mike Lelliot.
I think it is a good idea and needed, but can see there will be opposition. I don't think there will be any problems, clarity is what is needed and is what we don't have at the moment. If people want to use grades then fine, if not then they don't have to. Simple.
Dave Hollander.
In the right place then yes. Perhaps not suitable for everything, but if there is a system in place then at least climbers can choose.
Malc.
Having the choice would be great. I can see that it would be a popular idea, not sure how it would be accepted everywhere. I think it needs to be tried and folk wil find that it works.
Steve Tracy
A good idea. Rather than attempting hard routes and burning out on them early in a comp, you could pace yourself and warm up sensible before cranking it out. Keep the system simple though.
Julie W.
'NO'
I personally do not think there is a need for grades, ie: if the Scottish tooling series was graded, everyone would be clambering to start at the easiest one!!... Much better to just get on with it (or at least try) and not worry about any grading. [If routes are to be graded]..... keep them as simple as possible.
Jimmy Addison